After taking a look yesterday at Plymouth and London Dry Gins, we’re now going take a look at Old Tom Gin, Genever and New Western Dry Gins.
Old Tom you say? Yep, there’s actually a style of Gin called Old Tom. So what’s the difference between Old Tom and the rest of the styles of Gin? For one thing, Old Tom comes across with a sweeter taste and profile than that of London or New Western Dry Gins. This is due to many manufacturers of Old Tom using sugar to sweeten the spirit. In his book, The Bartenders Gin Compendium, author Gary Regan theorizes that this sugar was originally used to cover up the taste of poorly produced spirits. Today’s version of Old Tom Gin still uses sugar to sweeten the spirit, but rather than using it to mask the flavor of the rest of the spirit, the distillers use this as but one component of their magnificent representations of a style that’s only been back in the market for the past year.
Gary’s book shows Old Tom Gin first appearing in the early 1800’s. Prior to this, no record of a sweetened gin has been found. Currently only two brands of Old Tom Gin are available on the market, Hayman’s Old Tom Gin and Ransom Old Tom Gin. We’ll take a look at one of these modern day Old Tom offerings in the coming weeks. For now need to move on to something known as Genever, and no I’m not speaking Dutch. Genever is also a style of gin, but only in the loosest of ways.
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While Genever, is part of the Gin family, it’s pretty far removed. The only traits that Genever has in common with gin are that is often a malt wine distillate married to neutral grain spirits, the use of juniper berries, and the use of botanicals in the recipe. Genever is in actuality a malt wine that’s based on rye, wheat and corn rather that solely a neutral grain spirit that’s redistilled with botanicals added Genever. So when you taste Genever for the first time, you might be taken back a bit as to decipher what you are tasting. You might be hit with flavors that remind you of a barley wine, a beer or in some cases a whisky of sorts. What you’re tasting is Genever, the original juniper based spirit. The process is basically this, distillers start with a malt wine (aka formerly mash that’s been distilled) and then combine or marry this to a neutral grain spirit (think a dry gin) that’s been distilled with botanicals including everyone’s favorite, juniper. This process gives life to that which is known as Genever.
So why haven’t I heard of Genever before?
Well for a while it wasn’t available in the United States to easily. Very few if any brands were being sold in the US, and unless you came across an older bottle sitting in a bar somewhere, you were probably unaware of its existence. This has slowly begun to change as brands such as Bols (with Bols Genever) and Anchor Steam (with Genevieve) have recently made a splash in both spirits resellers as well as cocktail bars around the country.
The history of Genever can be traced all the way back to 1269 when juniper-based spirits were used quite often in health-related tonics and medicines. Skipping ahead to the 1500’s, a juniper based brandy was quite popular in the 1550’s, this led into the early 1600’s when the Bols family begin distilling spirits, that in the mid 1650’s led to the beginnings of Bols Genever. From this time period until around 1870 or so when someone ordered a gin based cocktail, they expected Genever not London Dry or Old Tom style. It was around this time period that Plymouth and London Dry styled gin started to overtake Genever as the predominantly imbibed gin. From this time period up until the re-launch of of Bols Genever in 2008, Genever was mostly unheard of drinks within the US and a good portion of the modern world. Since that time, several other brands of Genever have come to assist in the category gaining additional popularity within the cocktail world.
Here’s a video of Anastasia Miller and Jared Brown discussing the history of Bols Genever a bit further.
And last but without a doubt not least, we move on to New Western Dry Gins, those spirits that don’t fall into any of the previous categories we’ve mentioned and those that distillers seem to having lots of fun with as they are continuously introducing new recipes and bottlings. So what does this labeling actually mean in terms of flavors? Well this means gins that play with the senses as you taste them, your brain expects something akin to a London Dry but your palate might end up with something that has hints of grapefruit such as DH Krahn, hints of tea as Beefeater 24 has or in a real twist of what gin is, hints of anise and vanilla as Port of Barcelona hides within each sip.
So how did this nomenclature of New Western Dry Gins come about? It seems to have evolved as a result of US and UK brands as well as distillers seeing the need for another style of gin, one that doesn’t adhere to the classic definition as much as traditional styles have. The only defining factor of a New Western Dry Gin is that it must contain juniper as its main botanical. Past that the distiller has free reign. And oh do these guys take advantage of that. You’ve got brands using anise seed, grapefruit, lemon, and even lime.
So what you end up with is variety, lots and lots of variety. Don’t get me wrong this is anything but a bad thing. This just grants your favorite barkeep the ability to continue to come up with new gin cocktails, because well, they always has a new gin to play with.
Other examples of New World Gins include, GVine, Greylock, Junipero,DH Krahn, and Tanqueray Rangpur,to just name but a few.
So after breaking down the different styles of gin floating about we now come to the fun part, starting tomorrow and continuing for the next month we’ll take a look at a different brand of gin each day, breakdown the botanicals, and the history behind each individual brand.
For now I’ll leave you with Anastasia Miller and Jared Brown discussing the birth of the Gin Cocktail.
This article, and the content that follows would not have been possible without the assistance of:
Shawn Kelly, Marissa Frisina, and Simon Ford of Pernod-Ricard, Anastasia Miller, Jared Brown
Gaz (Formerly Gary) Regan of Ardent Spirits and Author of The Bartenders Gin Compendium
Chris Weld of The Berkshire Mountain Distillery, Marc Bernhard of Pacific Distillery, Domaine Select, G’Vine, The People of Bulldog Gin, Brian McKenzie of Finger Lakes Distillery, The Philadelphia Distilling Company, David Hughes of DH Krahn Gin, Diageo, Bryan Alex,and Sonja Kassebaum of The North Shore Distillery.