A Muddled Thought

While going through most of the “bigger” named absinthe manufacturers for this article, I came across a smaller brand absinthe that originates from Spain, called Obsello. Obsello while not only being an amazing representation of absinthe also has a bit of story to it.

I had the opportunity to speak to Bryan Alexander Davis, the master distiller and co-owner of Obsello for his very interesting back-story. When Bryan was at the young age of 18, he first heard about absinthe. Tracking down a bottle via the internet, he had his first taste. Unfortunately unbeknownst to him he had tracked down a bottle of Czech Hills brand absinthe, a product that used food coloring to pass itself off as a verte absinthe. Using knowledge Bryan had learned a year early while researching distilling and distilling his own rum, he decided to further research absinthe recipes and reverse engineer the sample he obtained to find out why absinthe at one time in history was once so popular and sought after. Ten years later in life, Bryan found himself in Catalonia, Spain searching for the ingredients he needed to recreate a long since gone version of Spanish absinthe that hadn’t been made in over seventy years.
After 10 years and several hundred trials, Bryan was able to perfect his Spanish style of absinthe, which would be come to be known as Obsello.

Using copper Galician pot stills made in the fashion of 1900’s century alembics, Bryan’s been able to a create an incredible unique absinthe that has an unmatched flavor profile.

Using a list of ingredients that include coriander, (Artemisia) wormwood, lemon balm and anise grown locally in Spain, Obsello has a very unique flavor profile and an interesting nose of anise coupled with hints of cinnamon.

When tasting it you’re presented with notes of sweet vanilla, and just the right amount of anise. Neither flavor overpowers the other, making each sip a perfectly balanced mix of flavors.

Adding a cube of sugar to Obsello brings out an additional flavor that conjures a very mild note that while we’re unsure of the cause is reminiscent of coffee.

While most people attribute all great absinthes of being based on the original Swiss recipe, by using herbs sourced from Spain itself, Bryan Alex has manages to Demonstrate that there are other ways to create an impeccable presentation of absinthe with Obsello.

Final Score: 9.5/10

Vieux Carre, named for the French Quarter of New Orleans is an absinthe that hails from Philadelphia. Yes you heard correct, Philadelphia, Pennsylvania.
Why do I mention this? Because when I first came across a new brand of absinthe, hailing from a company called Philadelphia Distillery known for making Blue Coat Gin and Rye Vodka, I had my sincere doubts how good of an absinthe these guys could actually produce.

Boy, was I surprised. Created by Philadelphia Distillery’s Master Distiller , Robert John Cassell,it uses a set of all natural herbs, and skips the oils and artificial colors some other absinthes utilize.

Looking at a list of Vieux Carre’s ingredients reads as an almost “by the book “ absinthe, featuring grande wormwood, petite wormwood, green and star anise, fennel, hyssop, melissa and in an interesting twist spearmint.

Upon investigating the nose of Vieux Carre we were hit with a mid-range balance of anise (not too little, not too much), fennel, hints of spearmint and for some reason minor hints of a scent reminiscent of black tea.

When we tasted Vieux Carre we were hit with flavors of spearmint and anise perfectly intertwined within each sip.

After an initial tasting with just water, we decided to add sugar to our second tasting. When this was done, the flavors seemed to balance even more, and again hints of black tea came out on occasion.

When water is added, it louches a green akin to a color similar to ecto-plasm from the movie, “Ghostbusters”.

For a new offering, in the absinthe market, the guys from Philadelphia Distillery got it right the first time around.

Final Score: 8.5/10

(Note-We found the flavors more rounded with the addition of sugar. Though this is a personal choice with Vieux Carre and we would recommend trying it sans sugar the first time)

The story behind Pacifique is a pretty simple one, though for such a great product I wish it had more of an interesting back-story, perhaps one that spans continents and involves lost formulas and rare ingredients. Alas it’s just a great product made in the state of Washington by someone who loves absinthe.
Marc Bernhard, the owner and master distiller of Pacifique Distillery discovered absinthe about ten years ago via two inferior products that hailed from the Czech republic, The Hills and Sebor brands. Over the course of nine years he experimented with a variety of recipes, and after perfecting his formula within the last year opened Pacifique Distillery.

What Marc created was an incredible impressive specimen of absinthe that does everything right down to the fragrance of anise that hits you as you open the bottle. Pacifique is made in exact accordance with an 1855 French recipe and process.
He uses a classic list of ingredients, many that he grows himself and lists them on the label, and doesn’t hide anything from the person purchasing this product. The list includes anise, angelica, coriander, fennel, hyssop, Melissa(lemon balm), grand and roman wormwood.

It louches the exact color you’d expect from an absinthe that manages to hit everything right as it should.
Upon tasting the absinthe, you’re hit with strong flavors of anise, and might think it’s a bit too harsh. Once we realized this we added sugar, which didn’t help the initial harshness. We then added additional water. Once additional water was added, the Pacifique took on a new personality and adopted additional characteristics that incorporated vanilla, minor fennel and with the addition of sugar just the right balance of sweet candy.

At this point any doubts we had, were removed and we were left with a very nice, very pleasant, hides nothing absinthe. An interesting side note, the back of the label also advises you not to burn Pacifique as it’ll ruin the flavor of the absinthe. Something we’d like to avoid, especially with Pacifique.
For something akin to a classical interpretation of absinthe, Pacifique is highly recommended.

Final Score: 8.5/10

Originating from the Corsair Artisanal distillery in Bowling Green, Kentucky Corsair “Red,” as it’s been dubbed, is an absinthe with a twist. An artisanal product, only available in a 375ml variety, Corsair takes a traditional absinthe, adds citrus and tarragon to the mix and then infuses it with red hibiscus for twenty-four hours.

The nose of Corsair is a combination of anise, sweetness and an unplaceable fragrance reminiscent of a red wine(burgundy?) with floral notes. I’m guessing the wine-like, floral notes are stemming from the hibiscus infusion. Continuing to throw the senses for a loop, the taste is a combination of spiciness and floral with minor notes of anise. The hibiscus seems to overpower the anise, more than I’d prefer.

It does louche in almost traditional manner, though with the infusion the color (as shown below) is a bit out of the norm.
After adding another portion of water, the Corsair began to grow on me. Floral notes mixed with spice danced with notes of anise to create a one-of-a-kind taste. Given its unique flavor profile, I’m curious to see how Corsair would work in cocktails.

So far removed from a traditional absinthe, it took me a while to determine a rating on this one. Would I say this is the best absinthe I’ve ever tried? No. Would I recommend anyone who’s a fan of absinthe to give this a try for the sheer experience of something different? Definitely.

Final Score: 7 out of 10

Mata Hari absinthe is marketed as an absinthe originating from Austria. According to the story behind Mata Hari, the recipe has belonged to the Fischer family of Vienna, Austria for over one hundred years. With the original recipe dating back to 1881.

After the ban of absinthe was lifted throughout most countries, master distiller Gerald Fischer decided to resurrect his great grandfathers recipe. Mata Hari is labeled as a “bohemian style” recipe. And in a similar fashion to how Le Fee uses the term “bohemian” to signify lower than normal anise flavors in one variety of their absinthe, so does Mata Hari.

In most cases, this could be looked upon negatively as not being representative of a true absinthe, however Mata Hari manages to impress.

In total opposition of previous reviewed absinthe specimens, Mata Hari does not utilized any artificial coloring and was even kind enough to supply most of the herbal ingredients that they utilize in creating this product.

The Ingredient Listing(As supplied by the Fischer Distillery) :

Grande Wormwood (Artemisia Absinthium)
Sage
Fennel Florentine
Camomile Flowers
Aniseed
Liquorice Root
Coriander
Cinnamon Bark
Orange Peel
Angelica Root
Wormwood Pontica For Coloring (Roman Wormwood)

With the lower than usual anise levels, Mata Hari is a definetly a unique product, with a nose containing minor anise, and notes of sweet that reminded us of candy or jelly beans. After going back to investigate the nose more, we also noticed some hints of vegetal, and herbal that we couldn’t place.

Upon tasting Mata Hari we were greeted with flavors of spearmint with minor notes of anise woven throughout.
After adding sugar to Mata Hari, the spearmint flavor did decrease. Due to the natural herbs used in Mata Hari it does louche properly as demonstrated below.

While not the most traditional example of absinthe due to the use of the term bohemian and lower notes of anise, Mata Hari still manages to impress and as with La Fee could be suggested as an introductory absinthe to get one’s “feet wet” in the category before moving on to some of the more traditional offerings.

Final Score: 8/10

The next absinthe we decided to take a look at is La Fee’s Absinthe Parisienne. La Fee produces several different varieties of absinthe, including a bohemian(as they say a low anise variety), and two wine based absinthe offerings known as La Fee XS Suise and Francaise. The variety we’re looking at here is La Fee’s verte offering.

The first thing you notice when you glance at the bottle is the logo of an eye staring back at you. I’ll give them credit as having one of the best and most noticeable logos as far as the absinthe market goes. I avoided using the obvious and horrible pun, “eye catching”, though I really was tempted to.
Moving on to the back of the label, a glance of the ingredient listed includes caramel color, FD&C Blue #1 and FD&C Yellow #5. So far we’re not off to a good start if La Fee is relying on artificial colors in its product.

As far as absinthes and spirits in general go, using artificial food coloring is never a good thing, and before I even tasted this offering I had my doubts.
So moving on to the opening of the actual bottle. The nose of La Fee has a great deal of anise, no hints of anything else. This is not necessarily a bad thing, as it gave me an idea of what I might expect upon tasting the La Fee.

The taste was a combination of anise, with minor notes of spice.
When adding water the green did become a bit more translucent, so it does louche to an extent. Adding sugar into the mix, the La Fee transforms into something with a candy like sweetness, which so far has been unique among the absinthes tasted at A Muddled Thought.

Putting aside the food coloring aspect of La Fee for a moment for a first time taster of absinthe, it gives the person a glimpse of what other absinthes may offer.

Final Score:6.5/10

Now we come to an absinthe that stands alone, though it’s not for good reasons. Le Tourment Vert is being marketed mainly as a mixer; as much they are pushing it in cocktails think more like the absinthe of choice of TGI Fridays. Yes, Le Tourment Vert has partnered into an agreement with TGI Fridays, famous for mudslides and two for one Wednesday night specials, to become their “absinthe of choice”.

Before publishing the tasting notes below, I took another taste of Le Tourment Vert. As I opened the bottle and poured one oz into a glass, the smell instantly caused me to think of mouthwash and nothing else.
This scent of mouthwash traveled along into my mouth as I was hit with flavors reminiscent of a minty mouthwash, each taste contained heavy hints of mint, lemon and a small amount of anise.

Moving on to the color of Le Tourment Vert out of the bottle it’s a bizarre bluish green color. Absinthe when created with the right herbs should be not appear the color that Le Tourment Verte does.

Upon examining the side of the bottle it revealed a list of ingredients that reads like a bottle of generic soda, with the inclusion of FD&C yellow #5, Blue #1, and red #40. A true specimen of abinsthe should not need to use anything for coloring other than that of natural herbs such as lemon balm, roman wormwood, and hyssop.

Due to the mostly artificially makeup of Le Tourment Verte, it barely louched when water was added.

The one compliment I can pay to Le Tourmente Verte is the design of the bottle inspires hope of the spirit, and the enjoyment it could hold. After tasting it, I’m sad to say the bottle is not fitting of the spirit contained within.

If Le Tourment Vert accomplishes one thing its current form, it’s that of familiarizing the masses with the spirit known of Absinthe.

Let’s just hope the person whose introduction to Absinthe via Le Tourmente Vert decides to purchase a legitimate variety of Absinthe the next time. Who knows maybe TGI Fridays will have bought up all the Le Tourment Verte, and they’ll have to choose a different brand.

Final Score: 3/10

When I decided to take a close look at the spirits category of absinthe, I had an additional decision I had to make. Would I include brands that fall into the category of calling themselves absinthe, while they don’t meet the minimum criteria?
After much consideration, I decided that I would have to include a few of these brands only to show the reader base of A Muddled Thought what absinthe is definitely not.

As mentioned in the previous posting that went through the history of absinthe, during the 1990’s companies started importing spirits marketed as absinthe in name alone. One such company is Admiral Imports based out of New Jersey.

Admiral Imports currently brings into the United States three variety of Czech branded absinthe (or absinth as it’s spelled on the label).

Koruna, has been billed as the flagship product offering and even includes some grande wormwood sediment in the bottom of the bottle. While it makes the appearance of the bottle slightly intriguing, this amusing inclusion might be the most positive thing I’m able to say about Koruna.

When opening the bottle you’re hit with a minor scent of anise. At first glance this could seem promising to someone, however this promise did not follow through as the liquid tasted like a combination of vodka and cinnamon schnapps.

Next up we move on to Djabel, which includes a red devil draped across the front of the bottle, sadly no wormwood sediment this time. Though the product literature is quite amusing making mention of inferior absinthes using fake coloring that led to the ban of absinthe in the 1900’s all while being a product that itself also uses artificial coloring.

Several paragraphs later the literature also makes mention of burning a sugar cube after soaking it in absinthe instead of placing a sugar cube on an absinthe spoon and letting the water drip over it.This tradition was started to add some mystique to illegitimate representations of absinthe such as Djabel.

The scent that comes attached to the liquid known as Djabel is of mild anise, grass, alcohol and not much else. When actually tasting Djabel, it resembles a very weak poor quality vodka with no distinct flavor profile to speak of what so ever.

And for our final look at the Admiral Imports family of absinthes, we take a look at “Green Fairy”. Though they might as well have labeled it as “Green Vodka” and called it a day. As with the product literature that accompanied Djabel, the literature for “Green Fairy” also recommends burning an absinthe soaked sugar cube to “follow tradition”. Along with this recommendation are several recipes on what best to pair “Green Fairy” with. These range from apple juice, cranberry juice and pineapple juice to what I’m assuming was meant to be something resembling a “Death in the Afternoon” (1 ½ oz of abinsthe topped with champagne) a drink Hemingway was famous for drinking large quantities of. Though this version includes ‘Green Fairy”, simple syrup and champagne. I’m assuming this would be akin to mixing vodka, simple syrup and topping it with champagne.

Somehow having “Green Fairy” be the last offering written about seems fitting as it resembles barely anything other than an incredibly high proof, very poor quality vodka. Matching this flavorless spirit, you’re hit with something reaking of alcohol with no other distinct scents from the moment the bottle is opened.

As all three of these offerings are not created using either the correct techniques or herbs of a true absinthe, none of them offer anything even remotely resembling a louche when attempting to bring out the oils as you would with a correctly created example of absinthe.

My goal throughout the entirety of this article and all associated abinsthe reviews was to educate about abinsthe in all its forms and provide recommendations on what products to buy and what products to not buy.

These three offerings from Admiral Imports fall clearly under the side of “what not to buy”. They are so far removed from what absinthe is, that I cannot in good faith offer a review grade of any kind. It seems as if someone decided to take incredibly poor quality vodkas and add some food coloring and a fancy label with a green demon on the bottle, and nothing else.
My recommendation is to stay away from all three of these product offerings under all circumstances.

Beginning this week A Muddled Thought will explore the ever growing absinthe category. Follow me (and the little green fairy) on a tasting tour of some of the world’s most interesting absinthes (both good and bad) and wrap your head around this mystical category

With all the mystery surrounding the once banned substance known as Absinthe, even the name itself is intriguing. What is the mysterious draw people have towards this substance, that in the past has been associated with madness, hallucinations, artists’ creativity, and over time earned the nickname “the green fairy”? Is it because of rumors that great minds such as Van Gogh and Hemingway created some of their most remarkable work after imbibing great quantities of this liquid?

With the rumors of such side effects of madness and hallucinations attributed to absinthe, it went from being one of the worlds most popular drinks in the late 1800′s to being banned in the early 1900′s.
So what caused absinthe to become banned? Up until recent years — in fact as recent as 2007 – thujone, one of the main ingredients in absinthe, had been thought to cause madness. In fact it was actually chemical additives such as copper sulfate that were used as artificially coloring that caused mental illness, not thujone as once thought. This, coupled with wine makers in France petitioning the French government to ban absinthe (mainly due to absinthe outselling wine), led France to say goodbye to the green nectar it once loved.

A brief absinthe timeline:

Circa 1792- Dr. Pierre Ordinaire, a French doctor living in Switzerland, creates the original patent recipe for absinthe.

1797- Major Dubied and Henri-Louis Perrenod open the first absinthe distillery in Couvet, Switzerland

1910- Switzerland bans absinthe.

1909- The Netherlands bans absinthe.

1912- TheUnited States bans absinthe.

1915- France bans absinthe.

1990’s-BBH Spirits starts importing Czech(billed as bohemian) ‘absinth’.

Early 2000s – Absinthe begins reappearing in Europe after it’s realized that EU law effectively re-legalizes it.

2004- The Netherlands lifts the ban on absinthe.

2005- The law banning absinthe is repealed in Switzerland.

2007-Lucid is the first absinthe to be made available in the United States since the original ban of 1912.

So now that we’ve cleared that up, a few more things about absinthe:

What causes the green color in absinthe?

The green color that is most often associated with absinthe is traditionally created by a combination of whole herbs including hyssop, roman wormwood, and lemon balm (otherwise known as Melissa). Lesser quality brands use artificial dyes.

Does absinthe have to be green to be absinthe?

No. Actually there are two distinct historical categories of traditional absinthe.

The most commonly recognized version of absinthe is that of a green liquid known as “verte” ;from the French word meaning “green”. Absinthe also appears in a second, clear variety known as “blanche”. The “blanche” (white) style of absinthe came into vogue in Switzerland following the ban. The deliberate omission of the coloring step by illegal distillers served as a means of disguising clandestinely produced absinthe from the watchful eyes of the authorities.

Is there a difference between French and Swiss absinthe?

Aside from referring to the country of origin, no. The term “Swiss absinthe” historically refers to any absinthe crafted strictly from the most traditional method of production. Thus, the highest quality absinthes from France and Switzerland were historically described as “Swiss absinthes”. The term “French absinthe” simply stems from the tremendous popularity of absinthe in France during the 1800’s and early 1900’s.

What about this supposed bohemian style of absinthe?

The resurgence of absinthe in Europe during the 1990s was spawned a rush of products to the EU market that are cheaply compounded from alcohol, oils, and artificial dyes, and bear no resemblance to the famous Franco-Swiss spirit. Some of them even consist of no more than alcohol with a handful of herbal matter floating in the bottle. These products are primarily of Czech origin, and are marketed as “bohemian absinth” (note the absence of the “e”). It has been offered that ‘bohemian absinth’ existed in Eastern Europe prior to the communist era, but a lack of actual evidence indicates that if it did, it was very obscure. Today, the term “bohemian absinth” loosely refers to products of varying quality that are marketed as absinthe, but are devoid of the characteristic anise and fennel flavor associated with the traditional spirit.

So what makes absinthe, well absinthe?

Absinthe, as created by Pierre Ordinaire and popularized throughout France, Switzerland, and much of the world was always an anise spirit, and any truly traditional absinthe derives its core flavor from a direct distillation of three main herbs, green anise, sweet fennel, and absinthium. Absinthe aficionados lovingly refer to these herbs as the ‘holy trinity’ of absinthe.

Secondary ingredients that were traditionally used include: Roman wormwood , lemon balm, hyssop, mint, coriander, and other herbs. Distillers of contemporary absinthes often employ different combinations of herbs to obtain a variety of accenting flavor profiles and create their own individuality. This makes absinthe a fascinating spirit, as very few brands have the same accenting flavor profile.

Two things common to any absinthe crafted true to artisanal tradition are firstly, the color of any traditional verte absinthe is obtained directly from whole herbs, and never from artificial dyes (e.g. FD&C Blue, Yellow, etc.). Secondly, absinthe always was invariably a dry spirit, and was never bottled with sugar (i.e. labeled as a “liqueur”).

So what’s the difference between absinthium (otherwise known as grande wormwood), and other types of wormwood?

The term “wormwood” is ambiguous when used alone. Artemisia absinthium (grande wormwood) is the very herb from which the word “absinthe” is derived, is one of the primary ingredients in absinthe, and is partially responsible for the core flavoring of absinthe. If this herb isn’t used in any appreciable amount (or omitted entirely), the resulting spirit ostensibly shouldn’t qualify as an “absinthe”. Roman wormwood, or “petite absinthe” does not create absinthe on its own, but was almost always used to enhanced the flavor and/or contribute to the color of a verte absinthe. There are many other types of wormwood, but these are not generally associated with absinthe.

How does the US government currently classify something as an absinthe?

Currently no official government declaration of what is required for something to be labeled as absinthe exists in the U.S.. This same situation exists in the EU, and has allowed a glut of inferior products to come to market and be paraded as “absinthe”. The only country that has a regulation that governs what can be marketed as “absinthe” is Switzerland, and no cheaper, industrial brands can be produced, imported, or sold there. Unfortunately, the Swiss regulation is presently under attack by EU business interests.

So how is Absinthe made?

There are several major steps to the process of creating a traditional absinthe.
The first step is comprised of macerating (or soaking) herbs and botanicals in a high-proof neutral spirit, for a period of time in a pot still.

Once this step is completed, the macerated liquid enters the distillation process, at which time the herbal essences and alcohol are vaporized and then re-condensed, finally becoming the spirit we know and love as absinthe.

Finally, there is an optional, delicate herbal maceration step that contributes the characteristic olive green tint.

Enough reading, how do I drink absinthe?

Absinthe is usually a high proof alcohol, ranging from 110 to 144 proof. The traditional way to drink absinthe is to pour one ounce of absinthe and slowly dilute it with ice water, either by using an absinthe fountain which allows for a slow drip, or by hand using a carafe. The suggested method is roughly three parts water to one part absinthe. A special glass known as a Perigord or Pontarlier glass is recommended as it was designed with a one ounce reservoir at the bottom of the glass to allow for serving of the exact amount of absinthe, no more and no less to create the most enjoyable imbibing experience.
Often an absinthe spoon, a small metal slotted spoon is placed on top of the absinthe glass along with a sugar cube to add sweetness to the absinthe. You need to better clarify the practice of dripping the water through the sugar into the glass via the absinthe spoon.

So why don’t I just drink my absinthe neat?

Absinthe was developed as a concentrated ‘medicine’, and was never intended to be served neat. As absinthe is an incredibly high proof, you will burn the taste buds and will not be able to suitably enjoy your serving of absinthe.

In addition, adding water to dilute the absinthe allows the absinthe to “louche” or bring out the essences of the anise, fennel,and other herbs to create a cloudy, and often milky white effect. This is best achieved slowly, hence the recommendation of using an absinthe fountain which allows you to control the water flow into the glass containing the absinthe. . By utilizing a fountain you’re less likely to over-dilute the absinthe than if you were to hand pour the water .
Now with all that out of the way, the fun part starts: the tasting of several brands of absinthe.
This article would not be have been possible without the assistance and contributions of the following individuals:

Ted Breaux-Master Distiller of Nouvelle-Orléans and Lucid Absinthes (http://www.vintageabsinthe.com)

Greg Boehm and Christina Andrews -Of Mud Puddle Books(www.cocktailkingdom.com)

Bryan Alex-Obsello Absinthe

Sam Harrington-Of Brand Action Team (www.brandactionteam.com)

Danielle Katz and Christine Deussen of Deussen Global(http://www.deussenglobal.com/)

Jim Meehan of PDT NYC

John Troia of Tempus Fugit

Editorial assistance was provided by:

Josh Hoffman of www.spiritedcocktails.com

Laren Spirer of www.sweetblogomine.com

Francine Cohen of Food and Beverage Magazine- www.fb101.com